HSF #4: Under It All – A Sneak Peek

Home at last…

now I can finally share some sewing pics with you. Today I got out the Regency chemise I hand-sewed while at my parents’ house and took some photos. It is the first part of the Regency underthings ensemble I’m making for the HSF challenge #4 “Under It All”. The second part will be a matching pair of short stays. I started them today and they should be done just in time for the due date (phew!). To tide you over until then, here is a first sneak peek at my chemise:


Here is the whole chemise. It is made of a very sheer cotton muslin and, as I am a short ‘un, it comes down to mid-calf length. And, yes, it could use some ironing, indeed. ;)


Here is a close-up of the drawn neckline and sleeve. Here you can also see the purl cotton yarn I used for the drawstring. It is very durable and works very well… much better than my camera lense that decided to have a field day with me. My apologies for that. ;)

Another picture of the sleeve. As well as the neckline, I trimmed it with bobbin lace. This was not really common period practice, but lace is just too pretty. Lady Constance, who made a gorgeous lace fichu for the “Innovation” challenge, and I had a little exchange about this topic not long ago. It sure backed my choice of lacy trim.

On the bottom edge, I sewed a broad blind hem. The fabric was so sheer, the hem could pass for both reinforcement and decoration, the same way shortening tucks did on period petticoats. It works a bit better than changing the pattern via slash and spread… ;)


At last, here is a photo of the sleeve gusset. Before sewing this chemise with the Sensibility pattern, I was a bit scared of gusseting. Now I know it is really pretty easy, if you know how. And they add a nice bit of comfy wearing ease to any chemise. Why did I ever make a chemise without them?

So, this was the first look at the Regency underthings. I cannot wait to share the rest with you, once it is done. As Obadiah, the little scoundrel that calls himself my sewing machine, is finally working like he should, it will not be long now. I will keep you posted.

Love, Nessa

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6 thoughts on “HSF #4: Under It All – A Sneak Peek

    • Nessa says:

      Hi Kura. :) It is the Regency Underthings pattern from Sensibilty (it used to be available from Simplicity, too, but not anymore).
      Jennie, who makes the patterns, gives very detailed instructions for everything. You can even view them online. Here is the link to the Underthings one: http://sensibility.com/pattern/RUGPInstructions.pdf . You will find the steps for the gussets in the Chemise section.
      What I learned out of this is that the gusset should be a square with the same side length as the sleeve’s shorter ends (the ones you would usually sew together for the underarm seam). The gusset given in the pattern also has the seam line ends marked out. It makes the folding-over and sewing-in much easier. :)

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