After a week full of shenanigans, it is due time to finally reveal my secret project to you. As I am mostly into sewing Regency costumes, this might come as a little surprise, but: I have decided to make a Saxon robe for this year’s Medieval and fantasy fair. Last year, one of my best friends took me there for the first time and, as I have quite enjoyed it, we will be going again this year. Last year, though, I wore some weird generic Medieval mish mash and honestly, it did not really make me happy.
So, this year I have decided to make the cut at around 1100 AD and go for something proper. As I am a huge fan of Bernard Cornwell’s Uhtred and used to study quite a bit of Old English culture, the idea of making a Saxon gown was born. My inspiration for the whole project was this illustration from an 11th-century manuscript:
Having no real experience with Saxon garments I then had a look at the individual parts of the gown. Usually, it consisted of two t-tunics, a shorter, knee-length one worn on top and a long, plainer under-tunic. The top one, sometimes also called a “gunna” was often more ornate, than the bottom gown, worked with facings and / or embroidery. The sleeves of the gunna were also usually a little wider, to the point of being somewhat flared out at the ends.
Over the gowns, Saxon women of all ages wore differently draped veils, with or without a headrail, and a cape or mantle to stay warm. As the veils were usually pretty long, they also sometimes doubled as mantles, just like in the picture. On the same SCA website, I found this overview of all the parts: To see the whole entry on the site, which has been very, very helpful to me, just click one of the two images. :)
So far, I have completed the under-tunic, aka the kirtle. I made it from a very old, off-white bed sheet. As a result, it is really comfy and I totally love wearing it around the house, flouncing the gored skirt. The pattern I used was free and worked like a charm. The tunic has what is called “smocked” sleeves. Those are wider near the shoulders and have a tighter, tube-like fit at the wrists. They were more popular in Norse fashion, but, seeing the huge Danish influence in this period of English history, they were definitely also en-vogue with the fashion-conscious Saxon. ;)
As some of you might have seen, I managed to post a photo of it to the HSF “Black and White” challenge before I ran of to Berlin to partake in the aforementioned shenanigans. As that has been a little meager at best, here are some more pics and a recap of the challenge details. It is my very first Medieval gown and it may not be the height of my sewing capabilities, but still, I am a little proud of it.
The Challenge: HSF #9 – Black & White
Fabric: Old, off-white cotton bed sheet
Pattern: Adapted from this one here: http://eqos.deviantart.com/art/Pattern-Smock-Gown-75003263
Notions: “Belt” from black leather strings
How historically accurate is it? The cotton isn’t, neither is the machine sewing on the inside, but I’m happy with the overall look and feel…
Hours to complete: about 12-14 hours
First worn: For the photos and various fittings. I made it for a Medieval & fantasy fair in late May
Total cost: about € 3 for the leather strings.
And here is one more picture with the skirt gores spread out, showing off all that awesome flounciness:
Meanwhile I have also started working on the matching gunna. It is almost done and the plan is to finish it for the Medieval fair which, luckily, coincides with the dates of the HSF “Art” challenge. Hopefully that will result in a few shots of the whole ensemble in action, outside my living room for a change. Until then, I will keep up the spirit of secrecy for a little while longer. But it would be really mean to let you go empty handed. Thus, I will end this post with a few snippets of the half-finished ensemble:
That should be all about the Medieval side trip for now. I will keep on updating it along with the latest Regency dress progress and maybe, a little input on Bavarian folk costume. Given, of course, this topic interests you. Would it? ;)