Whoops, has it already been a year since I found the job? Apparently it has, and it has been a turbulent one. I spent much time adjusting, quietly sewing away in my corner, doing some creative writing, and tentatively volunteering at a local museum. Somehow, blogging fell short among it all.
Now I remembered that I have not yet told you anything about the early to mid-17th-c. linen hood I finished last summer, shortly before the move. Tonight I finally find a moment to do so. Here goes:
As it turns out, loose hoods in the 17th-century are a fickle thing. They appear everywhere and nowhere. The little solid evidence I have comes from two ladies’ clothing inventories cited in “Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns 1”. Here a hood (one in each source) is listed alongside the ruffs. This can mean two things: First hoods might have been worn with ruffs a lot or second, someone meticulously grouped all the linen accessories into one section. ;)
Another source are two paintings. One is a less well-known English portrait from the British Prime Minister’s estate at Chequers. The other is a Vermeer, showing a plainer Dutch hood in a later, slightly different style.
There has been some speculation that these hoods were less visible in public than other headgear because they were probably a more private, indoors-y accessory. It makes sense as they would be more fuss-free to put on than some caps, for example during the morning toilette. Of the two extant hoods I found, one has a split back seam, which could point to the wearer’s hair being stuffed loosely underneath. But that is just a theory.
The extant examples are the c. 1610-20 linen hood at the V&A, from which the pattern in the book is taken and another, c. 1640, British cotton hood at the Met museum. From further away, this cotton looks a bit like a creamy silk organdy though. ;) In the pictures, you can see the partly open back seam.
The construction of the hood is fairly simple. It only has two pattern pieces, the rounded hood shape itself and a gore that is set into each side.
All pieces are joined together with insertion lace on the original. I opted for a simpler method and joined everything with a plain faggoting stitch, worked over the hemmed edges. I am not 100% certain how historically accurate my approach was. The crochet cotton I used was definitely not period correct…
I am really pleased how pretty the hood turned out. The light ramie-cotton blend fabric I found on sale was perfect for it. I made a matching kerchief from it as well. :)
And that was it for the first post in a long, long while. I am hoping there will soon be more were this one came from.
Thank you for reading. Wishing you all a pleasant week. :)